How to convert a money factor
Dealers quote a money factor as a small decimal. To compare it with a loan APR, multiply the money factor by 2400. That conversion is a comparison tool, not the payment. The payment also depends on the selling price, the residual, the term, and the fees. A strong money factor on an inflated selling price can still be a weak lease.
The base money factor usually comes from the captive finance company for that brand and that month. A store can mark it up. Ask whether the factor on your worksheet is the base factor or a marked up one. If you are also looking at a loan, compare the total you will pay over the same years, not the monthly payment alone, because the lease is renting the depreciation and the loan is buying the car.
How the rest of the worksheet fits
The number people remember is the monthly payment. The number that decides the deal is the selling price of the exact car, the fees added on top, the miles allowed, and how much cash is due before you drive away. Those lines move independently. A lower payment can be a longer term, fewer miles, or a larger amount due at signing. Ask for each line in writing before you treat two quotes as the same car.
Southern California is a wide shop. Drivers in Los Angeles, Orange County, San Diego, the Inland Empire, and the South Bay often start with the store closest to home. Selection and the willingness to discount the selling price are not the same at every franchised store, even in the same week. We call more than one store so you can see the difference on one page instead of spending a Saturday in three showrooms.
Your ZIP code matters because California sales tax and registration follow where you register the car, not where the store sits. Tell us the ZIP you will use on the contract. If you are moving, say so. A quote built on the wrong ZIP looks fine until the finance office reprints it.
Miles are the other quiet line. The allowance is a yearly number times the term. Going over costs money at the end, and buying extra miles up front is not always cheaper than a higher allowance from the start. Be honest about commuting, school, and weekend trips. A pretty payment on a low mile allowance is the wrong car if you drive much more.
If you have a trade, keep it on its own line. The payoff or lease buyout is not the same as what a buyer will pay for the car. Equity helps the next deal. A shortfall has to be covered in cash or rolled forward, and rolling it forward raises what you finance. Send the payoff letter with a good through date so nobody guesses.
What to send the desk
For money factor versus apr, send the year range, make, model, and trim, two or three colors you will accept, your ZIP code, how many miles you drive in a year, and whether you want to lease, finance, or pay cash. Add a trade with the payoff or the lease buyout and a good through date if you have one.
Green Light Auto Broker is an autobroker. All new cars arranged for sale are subject to price and availability from the selling franchised new car dealer.
Questions
How do I turn a money factor into an APR?
Multiply the money factor by 2400. Use that only to compare the rate. Still read the selling price and the fees.
Can a store mark up the money factor?
Yes. Ask if the factor on the worksheet is the base program or a higher one. The difference is real money over the term.
Is a lower money factor always a better lease?
No. A low factor does not fix a high selling price, a short mile allowance, or a large amount due at signing.
Should I lease or take the APR?
Lease when you want a lower payment and plan to return or replace the car. Finance when you want to own it and will keep it long enough to be free of the loan. We will show both if you want.
Text (714) 471-8775 or request a quote.
Brand and dealer names appear only to describe what a shopper may be comparing; they are trademarks of their owners. Green Light Auto Broker is an independent licensed California auto broker (CA DMV Autobroker License #72394), not a dealership.